“When Zagat meets Sex and the City…”

Feasting in Phoenix

March 5th, 2006 at 10:42 pm

Asi Es La Vida – Phoenix

This month marks my fifth anniversary with J. Like all other anniversaries, we will be spending it apart because we live in two different states and only get to see each other every other month or so. After five years, it still stinks having to be away from J. on our anniversary. It can’t be helped, but it really is a terrible feeling.

So, in the midst of my doldrums about J. being so far away, I decided I needed something different, comforting and special. One such place turned out to be a not-so-hidden gem on 24th Street between Indian School and Osborn.

Asi Es La Vida – Spanish for “Such is Life” – has been in the same building on 24th street for some time now. The builidng has housed many things and I remember at one point thinking it was a sports bar. None the less, I had passed it at least once a week and always wondered about it. The only thing I knew was that it served Mexican food and it was pricey.

I pulled into the parking lot that is at the back of the restaurant and was a bit surprised to see it decorated with Greco-Roman columns dotting a wall that surrounded the parking lot. The entrance to the restaurant was facing the lot and a man dressed in a crisp white shirt, slacks and tie greeted me. I entered the small courtyard and then into the main restaurant. The gentleman lead me into the front part of the restaurant and I was immediately comforted.

The interior of the place was romantic and beautiful. The lights were dimmed and votive candles were sitting on little shelves all over the walls. The walls were painted in earthtones and decorated with Mexican art and other items. Across the room, two guitar players were in the middle of a set of soft songs. I was seated at a table for two in a small alcove. The gentleman asked if he could get me some fresh pineapple, orance or papaya juice to start. I asked for a Diet Coke and some water.

In seconds flat, I was set upon by a member of the staff who brought my menu, a lit candle to the table, three types of sauce/salsa, and my drinks. The setting was perfect and the only thing missing was J.’s smiling face. I reviewed the menu and was a bit stymied by the fact that everything looked wonderful. After much thinking, I decided on the Queso Fundido ($7.95) for my appetizer. This would be followed by my Combination Platter of Ropa Vieja and Cochinita Pibil ($15.95). I placed my order and sat back listening to the very talented guitar players and enjoying the atmosphere.

Only about five minutes had passed when my Queso Fundido arrived. In the middle of a large bowl sat a serving of the fundido. It was piping hot and the oil from the cheese made it slide around in the bowl a bit. The cheese was well melted and covered a nice mixture of mild chorizo and nopales (prickly pear cactus pads) that had been sliced and sauteed. The flavor was salty, savory, somewhat bitter and smokey. It was excellent. The best part of the dish, however, was the fresh, homemade corn tortillas that accompanied the dish. I was given a basket of about a half dozen or so that were freshly made and still hot. The only thing that would have made this dish better would have been real butter to put on the corn tortillas before eating them. But I am sure my arteries were thankful such was not the case.

I finished the queso and had a few tortillas left over, so I tried the sauces. The first was a tomatillo sauce that was fragrant and had a nice kick to it. The second was a mild salsa with lots of onions and tomatoes. The third was a rich chipotle hot sauce that was just delicious. All were very good, but the winner was the chipotle sauce.

After finishing my appetizer, my plates were cleared, the drinks refreshed, and I was sat back for just a few moments before my entree arrived. The plate was set in front of me and it wasn’t more than a second before my nose was hit with a flurry of aromas. Accompanying the plate was another basket of corn tortillas.

I dove into the Cochinita Pibil. Wow! Pork had been slow roasted until tender and then cooked with a wonderful red chile sauce with orange juice. It was absolutely delicious and the citrus tanginess just rounded everything out wonderfully well. The Ropa Vieja was diced beef and potatoes cooked in a smokey red chile sauce with onions and spices. This was exceptional and the potatoes were cooked to perfection and had soaked up all the flavors of the sauce.

Black beans were served with a sprinkle of queso fresco. They were a solid side dish and held their own with a very rich flavor. The rice side dish was simply white rice with a few peas thrown in and a bit of cumin. Nothing outstanding, but a nice way to pull everything together.

As before, the corn tortillas were hot and fresh and I used every single one making sure I got every last drop of the sauce from the two meat dishes. A staff member came and cleared my dishes and refilled my drinks. Another staff member asked if I would like some dessert. I wasn’t going to refuse and he gave me a list of items. They all sounded perfect for a closing course, but I opted for the Flan Napolitano ($4.95).

Shortly after ordering, I received my dessert. The flan was a total surprise to me because I am so used to the round blob that usually is served on a plate with the sauce swirling around everywhere. This was totally different. A slice of flan was on a colorful plate with the aforementioned sauce, but the density of the flan was more like cheesecake than anything else. A fresh strawberry was the garnish and everything was dotted with fresh heavy cream and a sprig of mint. The flan was smooth, slightly sweet and fairly light. It was a grand way to end the meal.

I got my check and a final round of drinks. In reviewing the meal, I noticed that the flan had not been included in the total and called over my server. He thanked me for pointing out the discrepancy, but told me it was on the house. My total bill, including tax, was $28.00. I also threw in a couple of singles into the tip jar for the guitar players. They were good, talented and really made the mood. Strolling mariachis would have been very out of place here.

I paid my bill and finished my drinks. The meal was a success and the service superb. As I exited, I said my goodnights to the gentleman that greeted me at the door. I walked back out into the courtyard and thought about how much J. would have loved this evening. I got into my car and drove away.

So, five years with the most wonderful person in the world. I only wish we could have been together for our anniversary.

Such is life.

Asi Es La Vida
3602 North 24th Street
Phoenix, AZ 85016
Dress: Business Casual (although you could get by with Casual)
Notes: Parking is at the back of the building.

5
  • 1

    Agreed with your review…it’s a great place to eat. I’m pretty new to Phoenix so I’m glad something as cool as this joint is so close to where I live.

    O on April 2nd, 2006
  • 2

    My wife and I are both from Mexico so we have an idea of what part of Mexico the sauces are influenced from and proceed accordingly.Some of my hobbies are to cook and visit a variety of different categories of restaurants. I do so for my own pleasure and for my short list of emergency restaurant recommendation to clients, friends and family that can suit just about any budget, ambiance and price.

    This being said my wife and I decided to visit such as life restaurant after many positive reviews such as this one. With a menu price of this caliber it puts “Such is life” higher than or on par with Houston’s and Garduño’s Mexican restaurant in Scottsdale.

    Right off the bat I was a little suspicious about the waitress not handing our Menu’s right away but telling us what appetizer and dinner plate she recommended while waiting for our yes or no answer. The shell shocker came in when we received our check. After ordering the appetizer, which was a small portion of Cochinita Pibil, Chicken Mole and queso fundido, the waitress handed our Menu’s.

    The prices are high for a place where the plates and glasses were something bought out of a cheap home store. The Pineapple drink was a little watered down. The seats looked nice but when you sit on it you not as comfortable as the seats lead you to believe. The booth seats felt like they came from a fast food restaurant. After moving to 2 booths we settled for a regular chair and table.

    We actually were the first people there so my wife and I decided to walk around a bit and check out the place. The bathrooms were normal but not at the same caliber of restaurants found in other like menu priced restaurants. Everything in the place was for sale. The pictures and vases had little strings with a green tag depicting the price. After a second visit (I like to go back again in case it was a bad day for the restaurant) during the day I noticed why the restaurant was low lit. The doors and walls were painted by an amateur with thick paint and no attention to detail. You might as well go to dos gringos to eat. The place is not going out of business but the decoration is a way to bring in more income. It really cheapened the restaurant’s ambiance in my opinion.

    We tried different plates but the shocker was the appetizer. Never have I seen a small appetizer cost over $21 at similar restaurant’s of this caliber. I had to ask but I was told that the price was correct. Though she tried to explain the reason, I still could not understand how a small appetizer would cost more than a dinner plate. The dinner plate also had 3 times more food.

    the restaurant did set a romantic mood in the evening but I thought very cheaply. The prices are out of line for this type of restaurant. The owner should invest in the restaurant before offering those high prices. The waiters and waitresses are nice and friendly but not at the caliber of the other restaurants I previously mentioned. The menu price just commanded more from them. The bill is another thing. Since it is hand written and of a generic type used at small mom and pop fast food restaurants, I thought it killed the romantic mood and is definately not for a restaurant commanding these prices.

    Putting all that aside, the food is good (minus the store bought tortillas. They were not home made) and plentiful. I am left with the impression that the owner is trying to depict a high class restaurant while taking short cuts to maximize his profits, banking all of his marbles on the Chef which did a great job. The whole experience was like buying payless shoes but at the cost of a more name brand price. So my wife and I left telling myself, “Such is Life”, you don’t necessarily get what you pay for.

    Appetizer $21.95
    Cochinita Pibil dinner: $18.95
    Sea Bass:$15.95
    Pineapple drink $3.00 x2= $6.00
    Flan $8.00
    Peach $8.00
    Tax: $8.00
    Total: $80.85 not including tip for the waiter or guitar players.

    Such is life on July 15th, 2006
  • 3

    Such is life,

    Thank you for dropping by Feasting in Phoenix.

    I have to admit that I am a bit confused by your observations. In fact, my roommate and a friend and I all read what you had to say and were left scratching our heads. Perhaps you can clear some things up for us.

    1. You stated that you felt suspicious because the server rattled off a featured selection and an appetizer and then were shocked when you got the bill. What precluded you from asking the price or simply saying, “Oh, those sound delicious. Let me review the menu because we may choose something else”?

    2. With regards to your bathroom experience, as long as it was clean and had supplies, why would that make any difference? I would much rather have a clean bathroom in spartan surroundings than a bathroom decked out in the most fashionable of designs only to find they hadn’t scrubbed the toilet in days.

    3. You said you couldn’t understand how an appetizer could cost more than an entree. Really? I suggest you not go to Mastro’s in Scottsdale. One of their side dishes is $37.00, which is only two dollars less than two entrees on the menu (most entrees are well below that in cost). There are plenty of restaurants that have more expensive appetizers and desserts and side dishes than the entrees.

    4. What exactly did the service lack? What more did you need that they didn’t follow through on? I expect my server to take my order in a timely fashion, keep my water glasses filled, bring me my check added correctly, and check in on me from time to time. I have no specifics from you – just an abstract notion that they aren’t as good as Garduno’s (and why you would eat there is beyond me).

    5. You stated the restaurant set a romantic mood cheaply. Like the bathroom issue, as long as it set the mood, why would you care how much it cost?

    6. Speaking of romance, I simply have no idea what you mean about the bill being hand-written and therefore marring the romance. Huh? Is dot matrix or laser print romantic? I am truly boggled by this sentiment.

    It is clear that Asi Es La Vida really is not your cup of tea. So be it. However, I think that some of your criticisms are a bit over the top.

    Again, you left three people scratching their heads over your comments.

    Such is life, I guess.

    Seth Chadwick on July 16th, 2006
  • 4

    I will try to answer your questions above. I left some specific details in order to protect the workers at the time. If it was crowded at the time then I would not have cared but when you are the only one then I try to avoid being specefic. I have been to a lot of restaurants for the purpose that I described in my first post. Food can make or break a restaurant but the level of service and attention to details in the restaurant can leave the consumer feeling if they got what they paid for. We might have different criteria that we use to pick a good restaurant from an average one but I try to judge the overall experience based on offerings of similar priced restaurants with out going to the extreme. Most people ask me for my recommendation and I always ask back with a few questions such as price range, level of expectation, importance in food, service, amenities, occasion etc.. Depending on their criteria I give them my choices.I will answer your comments above.

    1. The appetizer was not on the menu as I found out later. I never thought, and so did another couple who ordered and then ended up canceling and leaving after checking the prices, that an average place like such is life would charge so much. I stated that the appetizer was small. It would have been cheaper to just order the Pibil plate and I would have been served a lot more of the mole and pibil than what came on the appetizer. On top of that the tortillas are not home made.

    2. I am with you but again my critic is based on similar menu priced restaurants. If such is life is based on a romantic restaurant then this item falls short to the others in similar categories that offer other amenities than just good food. Again all around trying to stay within the judgment of similar priced restaurant category.

    3. I have been to Mastro’s. It would be unfair to evaluate “Such is Life” in the same level as Mastro’s. I evaluate the food, service and place to what would be at similar restaurants based on the menu prices. Besides Mastro’s silverware, glasses, seats and overall construction and layout of the restaurant are far more costly than Such is Life. So again it would be unfair to compare Mastro’s prices to that of Such is Life.

    4. Service was good but not that great. Again I am judging from similar priced restaurants. The waitress poured water fast which tended to spill a little around the area where we sat. The waitress checked up not as frequently as expected but seemed like she had more important things on her mind. This being that there were only 3 couples in the place with more waiters waiting for more customers. I didn’t experience a level of carefulness or concern of our enjoyment. I would say this would be fine at a lower price restaurant but obviously she has not had training or worked in a much higher class restaurant that those menu prices would have dictated. Even in Mexico (where we are from) there is taco places that have more attention to detail. This being that my wife and I are both from Mexico so we spoke in the same language which would make you think that the order and effort for the person would have been much easier. If you have some waiter experience then you know that there is a flow and order to the process. Time is also taken part in this. Being a waiter is not just taking your order. This is the reason why waiters are paid more as you move up the level of restaurants.

    I do not know your level of Mexican cuisine tasting but there are many variations of the same plate in Mexico that is influenced by their region. A tamale is not the same tamale in the next state or city. So a Mexican restaurant is not all the same. This is why I always ask where the owner, chef or influence of the food is originating from. Then I judge from there and try to be unbiased to my native tastes. Some areas of Mexico might cook the same plate more spicer, sweeter, or greasier. Some might have different ingredients which are influenced from owners or chef’s of other countries other than Mexico. Most restaurants in Arizona I would say is Sonoran style influenced by the state of Sonora, Mexico. Bringing in a person from southern Mexico to eat Sonoran food would seem strange to him. So taking all this to account I know if I have a client or friend from one part of Mexico I have a safe bet they would rather prefer the food at one restaurant compared to another. Gorduno’s falls in this category. Most people from the border states are by default use to the sonoran style of Mexican food. I predicted that Mezcal would not last due to the Arizona people not use to that style of Mexican food. Sure enough it got bad praises but in its right it was very good if you knew what influence the chef was using.

    5. Again, the price tags hanging from the decoration, the cheaply constructed booths, seats, tables, paint, and glassware for a restaurant commanding those prices just didn’t meet expectations. The “look” is there but not the quality. You can feel it. The best way I can try to explain it to you is maybe if you were to buy laminated wood floors compared to real wood floors for your home. They both look nice but the feel and texture is different. The prices are different which they should be but if they were the same then you would have to find the reasoning why the laminated would command such a price.

    6. The ambiance is just not limited to where you sit. This is where I say attention to detail is what sets it apart from its competitors. Why try to go all the way to fall short in another department. If the menu prices were lower I would say okay. If they are commanding a higher so called elegant priced menu with theme of romance then this should dictate across the board.

    I am sorry but I do not think a consumer gets what he pays for in this restaurant. I did state that the food was good and I have no qualms about it. But the food alone in my opinion should not be the lone deciding factor of the prices dictated on the menu. The owner is in it for the money, lets be honest. This is not an excuse to charge those prices while going cheap on everything else. Like I stated in my first post, I always return when I have a bad review of restaurant in case it was just a bad day for the restaurant or from me. I easily spent almost $100 and we didn’t order any alcoholic beverages or the most expensive plates. My hobby is to cook and eat out so I do not mind spending $5 or $200. I don’t mind eating at a taco stand or a luxury restaurant. I am grateful that I can. I hope the Chef is well recognized and compensated by the owner because that is the only thing worth paying for. If some one is looking for to get what they pay for then I my opinion is that Such is life falls short. If you just want good food no matter what the price then we are talking a whole new list and for my tastes I can think of other restaurants that would be on my short list. Remember we all have different taste buds so it is good that we all can have different opinions.

    Cheers,

    Such is life on July 16th, 2006
  • 5

    We live in New England where decent Mexican food is hard to find. Whenever we’re in Phoenix we make a point to stop at Asi Es La Vida (which we always recall as Such As Life.
    We loved the typical Mexican casserole dishes that were served at lunch. Drinks were good. Glassware clean, decor pleasant and colorful. We think it is a cut above most Mexican restaurants, even in Phoenix, and would recommend it to gringos like us, who are starved for the real thing and not some yucko flour tortillas (an abomination) and a generic taste across the menu.

    Yankee craving South of the Border tastes.

    Judy Copek on January 26th, 2007